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When assembling a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might expect familiar high-end venues. But, nestled near the top among these food titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying part of north London.

An Surprise Accolade

The small Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. The honour has made the family totally surprised.

“I’m totally surprised,” states the owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ dedication that led to their humble place securing such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The little venue, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has kept much of its former character. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it is all about the fare, and this restaurant definitely excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a moist, juicy quality.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

It is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, toastier and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can start at many times that amount.

The Ethos of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is set to resonate outside its own walls. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this gastronomic triumph.